I love you. It will end. Leave something of sweetness and substance in the mouth of the world.
Anna Bell Kaufman
She came from Finland, a beautiful country, both modern and old. The countryside is filled with tall, white-trunked birch trees, red houses, saunas, and many many lakes. Three-quarters of the country is still covered by forest, and there over 100,000 lakes.
In summer, the sun barely sets. The days are long and sparkly and bright, the air effervescent and light. It feels charged with something magical.
There is no exact translation, but my understanding is… it is a strength and perseverance that comes from the deepest part of ourselves. My mom had this.
But what I wouldn’t give to be in that car again listening to her crackly voice. I can’t express enough how taking that time to be with her was one of the best decisions I have ever made. I thought I did it for her, but in fact, I see now how all along, it was a gift for me.
Anyways, so after all the work with the cardamom seeds, the rest is easy. And like I said, feel free to use ground cardamom.
You’ll make a soft dough and let it rise until doubled. If using active dry yeast, this may take 2 hours. Fast-acting yeast will cut that time in half so I usually opt for that.
Once the pulla has just about doubled, shape into rolls or 2 loaves or make two traditional Finnish braided loaves like this.
My mom would often add sliced almonds and raisins and roll up the dough into small sweet rolls. Those were good too. To make the braided loaf, divide the dough in half, then into 3 balls each, and make long “ropes” out of them. Braid them and tuck the ends under. Let rise for another 1 – 1/2 hour.
Brush with an egg wash, or milk and sprinkle pearl sugar over the top.
You can also bake the braided roll in a loaf pan for easier slicing, tucking the ends under.
However you choose to make Pulla, you will love its flavor. The nice part is you can wrap it up tightly and freeze for when you need something cozy and warm.
Every time I make Pulla now, I feel her in the kitchen with me. We make it together- even still.
PS. This poem below found its way to me shortly after my mother passed away… and it reminded me of the pulla I had in the freezer, the last batch we made together. I found it profoundly beautiful…and I especially love the last paragraph.
Cold Solace by ANNA BELLE KAUFMAN
When my mother died, one of her honey cakes remained in the freezer.
I couldn’t bear to see it vanish, so it waited, pardoned, in its ice cave behind the metal trays for two more years.
On my forty-first birthday I chipped it out, a rectangular resurrection, hefted the dead weight in my palm.
Before it thawed, I sawed, with serrated knife, the thinnest of slices —Jewish Eucharist.
The amber squares with their translucent panes of walnuts tasted — even toasted — of freezer, of frost, a raisined delicacy delivered up from a deli in the underworld.
I yearned to recall life, not death —
the still body in her pink nightgown on the bed,
how I lay in the shallow cradle of the scattered sheets
after they took it away,
inhaling her scent one last time.
I close my eyes, savor a wafer of sacred cake on my tongue and try to taste my mother, to discern the message she baked in these loaves when she was too ill to eat them:
I love you.
It will end.
Leave something of sweetness
and substance
in the mouth of the world.
More favorite baking recipes!
Pulla (Traditional Finnish Cardamom Bread)
- Prep Time: 3 hours
- Cook Time: 40 mins
- Total Time: 3 hours 40 minutes
- Yield: 2 loaves
- Category: Bread
- Method: Baked
- Cuisine: Finnish
Description
A traditional recipe for Pulla – a buttery Finnish Cardamom Bread that tastes and smells heavenly. Think of this as Finnish Coffee bread- perfect for mornings or afternoon tea. This makes 2 extra-large braided loaves, feel free to halve the recipe. Allow 3 hours rising time (30 mins hands-on time)
Ingredients
***Makes 2 loaves -feel free to halve.
- 14–20 cardamon pods (or sub 2–3 teaspoons ground cardamon)
- 2 cups whole milk, soy milk or half and half
- 3 teaspoons active dry yeast
- 1/2 cup sugar
- 3 extra large eggs
- 2 tsp salt
- 6 –7 cups all-purpose flour, more for the counter
- 1/2 cup soft butter
- 1 egg (for egg wash)
- coarse sugar for sprinkling
optional additions: raisins, sliced almonds, coarse sugar (pearl sugar). Feel free to sub other dried fruit and other nuts! You can sub turbinado sugar instead of pearl sugar.
Instructions
- If using whole cardamom pods, crack open the pods and lightly toast the seeds in a dry skillet for 45-60 seconds, stirring over medium heat until fragrant. Grind down to the consistency of sand with a mortar and pestle. You could do this step ahead, or use ground cardamom.
- Heat milk to lukewarm, not over 110F. Add a pinch of sugar and stir in yeast and let stand for 7 minutes. Check that yeast is dissolved and frothy indicating it is active.
- In a stand mixer or large bowl, beat the eggs and sugar until sugar is dissolved. Add the frothy milk and yeast, cardamom, and salt and beat until smooth.
- Mix in 2 cups of flour cup by cup, mixing until smooth and no lumps.
- Add the softened butter and mix well – the dough will get beautifully glossy. Continue adding the flour, a 1/2 cup at a time, mixing to incorporate, adding flour until stiff enough to knead, yet still soft about 6 cups. Knead using a dough hook or by hand, adding a little more flour as needed until the dough pulls away from the edges, and is satiny, about 5 minutes. (The key here is to use as little flour as possible.) Alternatively, kneed by hand on a well-floured surface, for 6- 7 minutes, adding a little flour at a time, dough will be slightly tacky but not sticky. At this point, if you wish, you could knead in some raisins and almonds. Shape into a ball.
- Place in an oiled bowl, turning to coat the top, cover with a damp towel and let rise in a warm area (80F) until it doubles in size. (I like to turn my oven on at the very start at the lowest setting, then turn it off, letting the dough rise inside, or place it on top of the stove.)*** Having a warm spot for it to rise is imperative here.
- After it has doubled, divide it in half. This will make two extra-large loaves. (Or make rolls see notes)
- To make 2 braided loaves, divide each half into 3 pieces. Roll each piece into long ropes about 1 1/2- 2 inches thick. Braid the 3 ropes and tuck under the ends. Place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper (or in lightly greased, or parchment-lined loaf pan-see notes).
- Beat the egg with a tablespoon water. Brush the loaves with the egg wash. Sprinkle with pearl sugar over the top and sliced almonds if you like.
- Let rise again until doubled. Place in a preheated 375-degree oven. Bake for 30-35 minutes or until skewer or toothpick pulls out clear (or internal temp is 200F) and the top is nicely golden.
- Pull it out of the oven and let sit for 10 minutes. Slice and slather with butter.
Notes
Instant yeast will cut the rising time in half.
Store the pulla, covered tightly on the counter. Or freeze (sealing well) for later.
You can also place this in the fridge to rise overnight or until doubled- then shape and bake in the morning ( following steps 7-11)
This makes two large braided loaves. Or use loaf pan loaves. You could easily halve this recipe!
To make rolls: visit this Cardamom roll post
I often divide the dough in two, make one braided loaf, and make rolls out of the remaining dough.
Nutrition
- Serving Size: 1 slice
- Calories: 188
- Sugar: 5.3 g
- Sodium: 212.9 mg
- Fat: 5.5 g
- Saturated Fat: 3 g
- Carbohydrates: 29.4 g
- Fiber: 1 g
- Protein: 4.9 g
- Cholesterol: 35.5 mg
Thanks for a great recipe! Pulla came out light and fluffy and delicious!
So glad to hear this Raija!
Just a lovely and achingly tender story about your mom, and pulla. All day now I will be sighing. 💕🕯️☕
Thanks Barbara, glad you found it. 🙂
I notice in the photos there is a version that looks kind of like cinnamon rolls with dried cranberries and a nut, maybe pistachio? Is there a recipe for that version? I would really love to make it!
Yes! Search for Finnish Cardamom Rolls.
I am so excited to try out this recipe. If making it the night before, do I refrigerate after the first rise? In the morning after taking it out of the refrigerator, what steps do I need to follow? Thank you so much for your help!
Hi Alice, once it has doubled in the fridge (or pull it out and let it continue rising on the counter until doubled) then continue with steps 7-11.
I’m vegan so I omitted the eggs, replaced the butter with vegan butter, replaced the milk with soymilk, and replaced the egg wash with equal amounts soymilk and maple syrup (it doesn’t get nearly as shiny but that’s ok). It was really good, the texture was fine without the eggs. It was so fluffy. Cardamom is so fragrant and special. I made 4 smaller loaves instead of 2 and baked them for about 14 minutes.
Great to hear that it all worked out! So helpful to hear your process and really appreciate the review!
Pulla= Awesome. So important to my life, and those before me. Kittos!
Thanks Susan, me too!